The canal and Lake Vanern

I have discovered from my thoroughly modern computer literate Mum that if you want to see the photos full size just left click once and hey presto!

The inland trip across Sweden is 210 miles long,  about half of which is canals and half lakes. The first leg is the 40 miles up the Gota River to the sizeable lake Vanern, at 100 miles long the biggest lake in Sweden.

The river trip was all under motor as we were against a 1 knot current and the winds were light. 

After 4 hours we reached our first lock, a somewhat nerve racking experience, they were huge!

Locks have a fearsome reputation because of the severe turbulence caused as the uphill gates are partially opened and the water rushes in to the lower lock leaving any boat not properly secured whirling about in the maelstrom of current, all the while trying to manage ropes as the levels change and the rope tensions change with it.
In fact it was a piece of cake. The locks are big and have bollards set into the walls to secure to. The locks allow the water in through grids in the bottom of the lock rather than through the gates thus preventing any turbulence , this results in a barely discernable rise in water level whilst the crew nonchalantly hold onto the ropes in one hand moving them up bollard by bollard as required; easy when you know how!

The Swedish waterways are mad busy in July when the whole country goes on holiday then in August they suddenly empty out leaving the place empty and we very much felt like we had it  to ourselves, fine timing indeed. At our second lock there was a cargo vessel coming the other way for which we had to wait. We tied up alongside a waiting wharf and within a few minutes a wandering minstrel appeared from a little boat moored ahead of us. He came to serenade us with what he translated into English as a ‘keyed violin’, an extraordinary and very beautiful instrument with which he played us two Swedish melodies.

The cargo vessel emerged from the lock and we were once again on our way, from time to time we shared the river with some pretty big traffic!

We spent the night tied up alongside a disused lock where we barbecued under a conker tree.

There are 5 bridges between the sea and Lake Vanern, all opening on demand with a few interesting variations on a theme.

After the final lock staircase to 130’ above sea level we came out into Lake Vanern. The lake shore was beautifully forested which made for some lovely scenery for a walk, a swim and a picnic; rather surprisingly, at 20 degrees the water was not as warm as the sea but wonderfully refreshing. We set off across the lake beating into a light wind; after 20 minutes out of nowhere it sprang up to 20 knots and the boat healed hard over just as I was talking on the phone to Tim. ‘Whoa’ we both went, hanging on for grim death; I glanced behind me just in time to see the boat hook, which I had not put away properly after the locks, disappearing over the side – ‘boat hook over board’ went out the cry! 3 times on our travels so far the boat hook has swum for variety of reasons, how many lives did this boat hook have? I knew it would float because I had collected it from a lee shore in Scotland when it was dropped trying to pick up a bouy in 30 knots of wind. We swung the boat round as fast as possible but Melanie had lost sight of it when she looked down to whip the hot mugs of tea out of harms way. Search as we might there was no sign of the boat hook, it did not stretch to 4 lives, down to Davy Jones' locker it would go.

The following day we went ashore for a bike ride. Sweden is remarkably flat. Much of it is forested with lakes scattered everywhere with field after field of golden wheat swaying in the breeze between the forests.

It was a lovely hot day with a gentle breeze, barely enough to sail but we drifted sedately towards our next stopping point. On the way, quietly melting from the heat, I decided I needed a dip. I stopped the boat, stripped off and launched myself head first over the side, realising, just before my head hit the water, that I was still wearing my sun glasses! Whoosh - they were whipped off my head. I thrashed around madly looking for them but alas, sun glasses do not float and they went to join the boat hook in Davy Jones' locker.

Melanie, God bless her, seeing that I was running away with the Wally point score, clearly felt she needed to even the score. As we came to anchor she let out the chain but several feet had gone out before she realised that the anchor had not moved, it needed a gentle shove over the bow. A gentle shove she duly gave it and the anchor then dropped the few feet available to it only to come taught after its fall with a twang that flicked all of last nights wet gooey mud off the chain and spread it all over the boat and all over Melanie! I did try not to laugh.

The shores of the lake are littered with small islands amongst which we anchored for the night. We found a most beautiful spot for a barbecue where a glass of wine washed away what few troubles we had.